How do I print from websites without all of the junk and advertising that wastes so much ink?

- Clarence

With the cost of ink being one of the most expensive consumables for most computer users, limiting what prints when you print something from the Internet is a good way to save a lot of ink.

One of the easiest ways to limit what prints is to look for an option on the page to create a "printer friendly" version of the page. This option is very common on news and reference sites, but still often includes ads in the printer friendly version.

Whether there is an option for a printer friendly page or not, the next step is to select what you want to print (click and drag your mouse over the desired text) and tell your printer to only print what was selected. The "Selection" or "Selected" option will only appear in the Print dialog window (File, Print) if you highlight the text before clicking on the Print option.

Although this method will allow you to avoid printing ad banners and unneeded footer information, it isn't going to completely evade unwanted content in your print jobs.

In many cases, you might still get stuck with graphical images that are dispersed within the content, which is done on purpose by many commercial sites.

If you want to totally control what prints, copy the selected text (Ctrl-C) and paste it into a Word document using the "Paste Special" option. This will allow you to select the unformatted text option for Pasting, which will only insert the text from your desired web page into the document (albeit in an unformatted manner).

If the information is important for the future, you can also save it to a file on your computer for easy access to the information at a later date. This is also a great way to reduce what could have been 3 or 4 pages worth of printing into a page or two (you can control the size of the text in this scenario as well).

Another option is to install the Lexmark Toolbar (search "toolbar" at www.lexmark.com) which will work with any printer. One of the options in the Lexmark Toolbar is to print in black or text-only, which will help you save ink (and could be a much easier option for younger computer users).

One of the latest entries into the software solution arena is a free download called GreenPrint (www.printgreener.com). Once you install the free program, it automatically analyzes each page of every document sent to the printer and looks for characteristics that are an indication of a wasted page (like the last page with just a URL, banner ad, logo, or legal jargon) to keep it from printing out.

GreenPrint also includes a handy and easy to use one-click PDF writer (which is great for anyone that wants to create a library of archival documents that can be viewed by any machine or any operating system) and a better than average print preview option that provides total control of what will print.

Anything that GreenPrint deems to be waste will appear as a red page that you simply double click to change to a page that will print (or vice versa).

Any or all of these options will save you money, time, ink, paper and aggravation, so pick the one(s) that work best for you and start saving some trees (and ink)!
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One of my nerdy friends told me that I should install a program called Threat Fire because it can do things that my anti-virus program can't do. Is this true and should I install it?

- Samantha

When it comes to protecting your computer from viruses and other malware (malicious software), there are two approaches to guarding your computer in the anti-virus arena; signature-based and behavior-based.

The most common programs use "signature-based" scanners that look for known signatures of malicious code in any file that is being scanned. Most of the name brand anti-virus programs on the market (Norton, McAfee, CA, AVG, Panda, Webroot, etc.) are signature-based scanners.

Signature-based antivirus programs are very good at detecting malware because they are looking for the known signs at the code level for known malicious software. The hole in the signature-based scheme is that new threats can't be detected until the infectious code has been discovered and added to the "signature" file of the anti-virus program (which is why it is so critical that you keep your anti-virus program up-to-date.)

This is also why anti-virus software can't always protect you from infections, especially when opening file attachments or manually downloading "free" software, because new threats have to infect systems before they become known.

Once the new threat has been identified, the 'race is on' to update the detection signature file and get it out to all the users before they come in contact with the new infection.

In the past, new vulnerabilities would be discovered and we would start to see exploits appear a couple of months later. This gave the anti-virus companies ample time to create updated signature files and get them out to their users.

Today, it is very common to see "zero-day" exploits, which means as soon as a new vulnerability in any operating system or software program is discovered some bonehead on the Internet has written malicious code to take advantage of the hole the same day that the exploit was discovered.

In general, you shouldn't run two signature-based anti-virus programs on the same system because they will detect each other as potential threats and can cause various other system maladies (more is not better, in this case.)

The latest type of anti-virus protection is based on behavior-based scanners that look for specific types of behavior that are common with malicious software programs. This behavior-based approach has a better chance of catching unknown threats that a signature-based scanner would not be able to detect until it was updated with the signature information.

The down side to behavior-based programs is that you're more likely to get "false-positives" on legitimate programs that you do want to have running on your system.

ThreatFire (www.threatfire.com) is a free behavior-based anti-virus program from the folks at PC Tools that can be added as an additional layer to systems that are already running a signature-based anti-virus program.

I would not recommend running it on its own and I would not recommend adding it to a computer that is already infected or is on a dial-up connection or that's experiencing performance issues. ThreatFire's value comes from proactive protection against future threats, not current infections.

Generally speaking, if you have a signature-based anti-virus and you are very careful about what files you open and what websites you visit (heaven help all of you with teenagers in your house!) you will be just fine.

If you decide to add ThreatFire for additional protection, make sure your computer is completely clear of any malware before adding it (or any security software for that matter) or you could stand the chance of causing system lockups or reduced system performance as a result of the existing condition of your computer.
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When I go to the office supply store to buy printer paper, the selection is ridiculous and confusing. Is there really a difference in all those different types of paper or is it just a bunch of hooey?

- Veronica

Believe it or not, the array of different types of paper actually do have a purpose, but only if you are printing with that purpose. The two primary considerations are the kind of printer you have and the kind of print job you want to perform.

If you are purchasing paper for general use (mostly text output) and aren't concerned about the sharpest, brightest colors in your images or how long the colors will keep from fading, buy the cheapest stuff you can find.

The main consideration for general use printing is the weight rating of the paper, which has to do with how heavy each sheet it (20 lb being the most common - the higher the number, the heavier the paper).

Be careful not to put heavy card stock paper (60 to 100 lb) into low cost ink-jet printers as this can cause damage in some cases. The maximum recommended paper weight is generally listed in the owner's manual or on the printer company's website with directions on how to adjust the printer for the heavier paper.

If you care about the print quality, then you need to care about the paper quality. Matching the paper type to your printer type (ink-jet vs laser) is a good first start. Ink-jet paper will generally be labeled as such while laser paper may be called "laser paper" or copy paper (often with a reference to toner-based devices).

Since ink-jet printers are the most commonly used and have the most variations, they will be the most complicated to shop for.

Paper that is listed as "ink-jet stock" will generally provide crisper print jobs because the paper is smoother and less absorbent. When an ink-jet printer prints to paper that is rough or fibrous, the ink will "run" down the fibers which is what causes fuzzy output, especially with photo printing.

You will likely observe that the widest variety of paper tends to be that which is labeled as "photo paper".

When it comes to photo printing, you will want to be the most careful in making your selection based on what your overall goals will be.

If you want to print the sharpest, brightest pictures that will last the longest, look in your printer's owner's manual for the specific paper made by the manufacturer that is recommended for your specific printer.

You will always see that the printer companies claim that you'll get the best results if you stick to the papers and inks that they make and in general they're right. There actually is some science involved in formulating the paper to match the printer and ink, so using photo paper that was designed for another brand of printer can provide mixed results.

The level of photo paper (usually denoted by the price) will generally have a direct impact on the color quality, sharpness and how long it will last before it starts to fade because of the special coatings that keep the ink from spreading and fading.

Some ink-jet printers use a special type of ink, which can often react different with the wrong type of paper, which is another reason to review the recommended products in your printer's owner's manual.

In review, if you plan to print photos that you care about, make sure you buy paper that is designed as "photo paper". This type of paper is significantly more expensive, so buying the various qualities in small quantities at first is the best way to find the best paper for your needs

If you can't tell the difference when you print it your test images, the only difference in the cost will generally be how long the photos last before fading.

If you are trying to achieve the highest quality photo output, make sure to check in your printer's Properties to see if the various paper types are listed by name. If you don't tell the printer that you are using the special paper, it may not print at its maximum level.
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During your radio show you mentioned a site that would check attachments for viruses. I was in the car and couldn't write the site down. Could you please tell me the name of the sight and instruction for use?

-Lorrence

Just about everyone that provides assistance to computer users barks out the same command, over and over again: DON'T OPEN FILE ATTACHMENTS!

While as a general piece of advice it is very sound, as a practical matter, it really doesn't address some real world situations.

Legitimate attachments can come to us every day, so what can the average user do if they think that an attachment is something that they want to open?

In general, if someone you are corresponding with says that they are going to send you an attachment or a business colleague sends you a spreadsheet or document with clear indications of a current discussion that you've been having, chances are that the attachment is legit.

The problem with giving blanket guidance is that there are always exceptions, which all can't be covered in the space or time allotted.

In the case of attachments, all it takes is one rogue file that you open that you shouldn't have and the damage is done. Most malicious code will appear in your Inbox with a "spoofed" address, which means it did not actually get sent from the address in the "From" section.

If they can get you to let your guard down for even one second by making it look like it came from someone you know, they might trick you into opening the attachment.

Today's malicious code is quite capable of overpowering, sidestepping or even disabling your anti-virus program if the bad guys can get you to open certain types of attached files.

For those situations where you believe an attachment is legit, but you are not absolutely sure, you can get a free "second opinion" before opening the file.

A website called VirusTotal.com offers to scan any file by over 35 different virus scanning engines from all the major anti-virus companies and a whole host of smaller companies that have created specialty anti-virus detection systems.

You can have a file checked in two ways: Go to www.virustotal.com and upload any file you want checked (which means you will have to save the attachment to your local hard drive first) or forward any message that has an attachment (cannot exceed 10 Mb in size) to scan@virustotal.com and replace the subject line with the word "SCAN".

If you upload the file, you will get an onscreen report from all of the various anti-virus scanning engines or if you forward an e-mail with an attachment, you will get a detailed report e-mailed back a short time later.

The detailed report will show if any of the anti-virus engines detected anything and if they do, there is a link at the bottom that will give you more information about what the malicious code does.

CAUTION: If the contents of any files to be scanned contain very sensitive personal or company information, you may not want to use this service as any file uploaded or e-mailed has the potential of being accessible by those that work with and around this project.
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Why does my cell phone create a sound like static interference when it is laid near the speakers and the monitor on my desk? Off and on all morning I could hear the interference come and go. If I shut the speakers off, the sound stopped, or was that coincidental?

- Carol

With all of the wonderful electronics in our lives, on occasion they clash with each other and what you are experiencing is the clash between your cell phone and your computer's speakers.

The type of cell phone and the type of computer speakers that you have will both have a dramatic impact on this noisy irritation. You may notice (especially after reading this column) that not all cell phones create the crackling, pulsing noise and not all computer speakers will pick up the interference generated by some cell phones.

Let's start with your computer speakers. The job of your speakers is to amplify sound, so any sound that is introduced to the speakers will be amplified. Typically, the sound that is to be amplified is supplied to the speakers via the wire that connects into your computer's audio output.

If, however, the speakers and the connecting wires don't have adequate "shielding", then various "radio frequencies" (RF) can be picked up and amplified by the speakers. Most computer speakers are very inexpensive and rarely have any real level of shielding, so RF interference can easily sneak into the path of amplification.

When you shop for speakers and notice that they claim to be shielded, they are referring to the shielding of the magnets inside the speaker, which prevents magnetic interference with your monitor, not shielding against this problem, unfortunately.

The noise you are hearing can be picked up from various connectors and components in your speaker system including the entire length of the wire that connects to the back of your computer (which inadvertently ends up acting like an antenna if the shielding is degraded or non existent).

Now for the differences in cell phones...

Cell phones that use a GSM network (AT&T or T-Mobile are the major carriers that do) use a pulsing radio frequency to communicate with the cell towers, which is what you are hearing through your speakers.

GSM phones will create the pulsing interference at different levels for a number of reasons: prior to and during an incoming or outgoing call, sending and receiving text messages, transitioning between coverage areas or just as an ongoing way to register location with the system.

Another issue is the power needed to communicate with the cell towers; if your phone is having to crank up its wattage in order to connect to a weaker signal, it can introduce noise from a farther distance because it is transmitting a more powerful signal.

Cell phones that use the CDMA network, which consist of most phones from Alltel, Sprint/Nextel and Verizon, don't use the same pulsing radio frequencies as GSM phones, so they don't usually have this issue near computer speakers.

A possible exception for CDMA based cellular phones are the newer "world phones" that incorporate both CDMA and GSM technology in the same phone, but only when they are communicating with a GSM network.

Generally speaking, moving your phone away from your speakers (and the wires) or turning it off will reduce or eliminate the noise. Higher quality speakers can also help, but make sure to perform "the cell phone test" at the store before buying any new speakers!

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I am a new Blackberry user and loving it but what kinds of security issues should I be concerned about?

- Jamie

Everyone that owns any kind of a "smart" or PDA phone that stores data, should have the same concern.

These dynamic phones have dramatically improved the mobile communication world and devices like the Blackberry are leading the way, but they also lead the way in exposing the user to much higher risks.

The risks aren't so much the traditional computer virus or hacker risks (although that's changing as more people use smart phones), the real risk is in what happens if you lose your phone.

Anyone that's had a Blackberry or iPhone for any period of time has likely compiled a ton of information that could aid in identity theft or expose sensitive corporate data.

All of these devices have security options available, but most all of them come from the factory disabled.

Start by looking for the Security settings for your device and activate the master device password (for most Blackberry devices it's in Options | Security Options | General Settings) which will automatically lock down the phone after the chosen "Security Timeout" period.

When you activate this setting, you will have to put your password in every time the phone sits idol for longer than your Security Timeout period, so don't set it too low or it will become irritating.

You should be aware that Blackberry's are programmed to automatically wipe out the data if you enter the password wrong 10 times. This auto wipe feature can work for you if you lose your device or against you if you are not good at remembering your passwords, so use a strong password, but don't forget it!

For easier lockdowns you may want to consider setting your side "Convenience" button as a shortcut to activate the Lock option. This will allow you to quickly lock the phone whenever you wanted without having to scroll through the menu to get to the Lock feature.

Another potential security hole is the Bluetooth wireless option, depending upon how you have it configured. If you don't plan to walk around like a cyborg with a Bluetooth headset on your ear, simply disable the Bluetooth interface for maximum security. If you do want to use Bluetooth devices, make sure your phone is not set to "Discoverable" to keep others from connecting to your phone without your knowledge and manually configure anything you want to connect through Bluetooth.

If your Blackberry is part of a large corporate network that uses a current version of the Blackberry Enterprise Server (BES), your system administrator can actually send a remote "kill" command (which wipes everything out) that will get delivered to the phone wirelessly, as long as the phone is turned on and in a wireless network coverage area.

When you store sensitive personal information on your phone, try not to make it too easy for someone to scan through your phone and harvest the data.

For instance, if you are going to store passwords, pin numbers or other very sensitive information on the phone, don't label it as PIN number or online passwords or even mention the name of the bank. Use coded entries or abbreviations that only you would understand.

If you are storing banking access information, don't put the username and the password in the same memo or note, use separate entries that are not obviously linked. Assume that someday you will lose your phone and do everything you can to make it very difficult to understand where and how to use the data that you are storing.

Every smart phone has a number of other security options that can be activated, but you will need to do your homework to know which ones are best suited for your use (Google is the best resource for learning how others are securing your specific device).

Remember, security and usability are on the opposite sides of the scale, so find the right balance so that your device is secure and usable at the same time.

All of this should also turn on another light bulb: Sync your device with your computer on a regular basis so you always have a current backup in case you ever lose or have to reset your device.

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What is the cheapest, easiest and best way to use video over the Internet to monitor my home when I'm away?

-Mike

The ability to see what is going on at your home or business via the Internet with simple off-the-shelf products has never been easier or cheaper.

A whole host of companies have created various solutions for just about any need or budget.

When it comes to cheap and easy, one of the best solutions going is a wireless webcam that is designed to be access via the Internet (sometimes referred to as an IP camera). Most of them don't even need a PC to be accessed via the Internet!

Today's basic wireless webcams are pretty sophisticated and include features such as the ability to send both audio and video and activate recordings (to your hard drive) or send e-mail alerts with snapshots when it senses motion.

More expensive units include features like Pan/Tilt/Zoom (PTZ) that can be controlled remotely via the Internet or special lenses designed to work in low lighting at night.

Although these webcams are wireless from the standpoint of transmitting the video signal, they aren't completely wireless because they still need to be connected to a power source. This means that you will have to find camera locations that are near power outlets in order for them to work.

Once you have determined the location(s), you'll want to decide how many cameras you want to install and monitor. Some of the companies have software that will allow you to monitor up to 32 different cameras from any Internet connection in the world. The more cameras you want to monitor, the more complex the software and configuration will be.

Basic wireless webcams that have a stationary lens start in the $100 - $150 range, while units that have advanced Pan, Tilt and Zoom options can range from $200 - $500.

Companies such as Linksys (www.linksys.com), SMC (www.smc.com) and D-Link (www.dlink.com) have a variety of products that include everything you need to get started.

If you want to install one of these webcams outside, you can add special outdoor enclosures that are specially designed to protect them and some even include heaters and blowers (www.dlink.com), but again, you will need to have it near a power outlet.

Accessing these little marvels of technology from a computer that is connected to the same network is pretty straightforward. You simply open a web browser and type in the IP (Internet Protocol) address that was assigned to it at the factory, which will give you access to the tiny web server that is built into the camera.

Accessing the camera from the outside world takes a little more technical skill because you have to open up a special port on your wireless router. The instruction on how to do this varies from company to company, but a working knowledge of your existing wireless router is helpful.

If you plan on installing a number of cameras around your house or business, my recommendation to you is to start slowly. Buy a single camera and install it so you can get a feel for its strengths and weaknesses.

Once you install the "test" unit and play with it for a couple of days, you can make a better decision about whether that particular camera has the right combination of camera, monitoring and recording software for your needs.
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I recently had Zone Alarm on my computer and one of their updates stopped me from being able to access the Internet or E-mail. I removed the software... and they came right up. Can you recommend a free firewall download?

-Ken

The primary function of a firewall in the computer world is to limit access to and from other computers that are connected through a network. The Internet is the world's largest computer network, so a firewall is an essential component to reduce the possibility of an unauthorized person gaining access to your computer via the Internet.

I have always used the "nightclub bouncer" analogy to explain firewalls. Think of a firewall as a 'bouncer' at the door of your personal nightclub (computer). Only those that are authorized (have an invitation) are allowed to pass by the bouncer.

A nightclub with no bouncer has no way to 'filter' patrons as they come in, which makes it less 'secure'.

A big mistake that will compromise the security of your nightclub (and computer) is leaving a back door open (the computer equivalent of opening file attachments that are infected), which will circumvent the security at the front door.

Unauthorized patrons can sneak in the back door and once they are inside, they can alert other unauthorized patrons on how to access the 'back door'.

A common misconception surrounding firewalls is that they somehow prevent viruses and other malicious code from attacking your computer...nothing could be further from the truth.

Most malicious code generally comes to you as an attachment in e-mail or text message or by visiting a website that attempts to silently download its malicious code (aka drive-by downloads). Once an infected file is opened or a drive-by download is executed it can completely compromise the security created by the firewall.

There are two general types of firewalls; hardware and software-based.

In general, hardware firewalls are easier to install, manage and protect a large number of computers in home or business networks all at once.

If you installed a "broadband router" which allows you to share your high-speed Internet connection with several computers, you have also installed a hardware firewall, which could be all you need if you are a conscientious Internet user.

Even if you only have one computer connected to a high-speed connection, such as a cable modem or DSL, I would highly recommend that you install a broadband router.

Software firewalls can add a second layer of protection, not so much from those that are trying to get in but as a way to alert you whenever a program is trying to access the Internet.

When your computer get's infected by spyware, adware or identity stealing key loggers, they all try to "phone home" via your Internet connection.

A software firewall will alert you to the fact that a program is trying to access the Internet and block it until you give that program permission to do so.

For those with a technical background, this additional action is fine, but for most average users, this additional level of coverage causes a lot of heartburn (as in your case).

The heartburn comes from not knowing the difference between a valid program (such as your anti-virus, anti-spyware or other security programs) and a rogue program or in your case, how to tell the firewall which programs have permission to access the Internet.

When you first install a software firewall (or if an update resets your permissions), it will stop every access and ask your permission, which tends to drive non-technical folks up a wall.

Another issue to consider is what you do on your local network. If you need to be able to access files and drives from one computer to another on your own network, a software firewall installed on each machine can make that access more complex.

The technically astute crowd doesn't give the Windows Firewall much credit, because in the past it did little to block outbound traffic. The latest version does a much better job and should be available in any computer that has all the current updates installed (open the Control Panel and then the Security Center to see if it is turned on).
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I keep getting phone calls from automated telemarketing systems even though I registered my number on the do not call list.. Can I look these numbers up on the Internet to find out who these people are and report them?

- Allen

When the government announced the creation of a national "Do Not Call" registry (www.donotcall.gov) as a means to reduce the number of telephone solicitations, many cheered their efforts.

While creating this system helped in the beginning, the bad guys have been constantly looking for loopholes to get around the system.

Some are moving their operations off-shore and using inexpensive Internet based phone technology to continue to harass you. In these cases (and at this point they are rare), the do not call list is a treasure trove of real numbers for those that have no intention of observing the US regulations.

U.S. based firms are skirting the law by setting up elaborate "affiliate networks" that exploit the provision in the system that allows businesses with a "previous business relationship" to contact you up to 18 months after the last contact, payment or delivery of a product or service.

Some have even setup complex contest offers in shopping malls and sporting events to get people to essentially sign away their rights to the Do Not Call registration.

Others are using call blocking so you can't figure out who they are and where they are calling from.

Legally, those conducting surveys, non-profit organizations or political solicitations are permissible even though you registered your number on the Do No Call list. The latest scam is posing as an organization that is taking a survey in hopes of opening the door to a solicitation by asking if they can call you back.

Another area where they can still bug you is at your business. The Do No Call list is designated for consumers only, so business-to-business calls are still going to occur and that may include your cell phone.

You can enter your personal cell phone number in the DNC registry, but if it's a business cell phone, it's not covered by the DNC regulation.

There are a number of Internet resources for determining who is calling you when the caller ID shows up, but be very careful where you go.

There are many websites setup that will charge you to determine who a phone number belongs to, even though you can get what you need for free.

I prefer sites where others have gotten the same call as you (based on the caller ID number being the same) and have already done the homework for you.

Checkout sites like www.CallerComplaints.com and www.800notes.com to quickly determine if you are getting the same calls as others and what they have determined them to be.

Another way to fight the automated telemarketing companies is to put a special tone that sounds like the "disconnect" sound at the beginning of your voice message greeting. This will tell an automated system that the number has been disconnected via the tone and to remove it from their list, but humans will hear your answering message and realize that it is valid.

You can download the "disconnect" sound file from our site at: http://www.DataDoctors.com/disconnect.wav.

You can report anyone that you think is violating the DNC registry parameters by clicking on the "File A Complaint" link at www.donotcall.gov.

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I have gotten several invitations from Linkedin and I have even signed up for an account, but what exactly did I sign up for? How do I use it to help me in my business?

- Steve

Social networking as a means for growing your business is an approach every business should strongly consider. The wild popularity of sites like MySpace and Facebook has paved the way for business professionals to interact like they would in traditional business networking groups, only at the speed of light.

Not only can you get in front of prospects for your products and services, you can explore new business development ideas or get advice from other business owners without ever leaving your desk (take advantage of the "wisdom of the crowd"). Any idea you have for expanding your business, you can post as a question on sites like http://www.Linkedin.com (which I recommend as the starting point for anyone new to business social networking) and get the equivalent of a market research analysis or direct contacts into new industries.

The first thing to understand when venturing into social networking as a business is that it's time intensive. In the early stages, it would not be unusual to spend a half hour to an hour per session for the first couple of days getting up to speed and connecting with others. And to truly take advantage of the networking opportunities, you must be willing to engage on a regular basis (in my case, daily but only a few minutes at a time).

If you can't commit to working with your profile every couple of days (or weekdays at least), you're likely not going to get through the learning curve and will get very little out of the experience. You can not successfully interact in a social network on a casual or infrequent basis. The key to getting something out of Linkedin is asking and answering questions.

Imagine being a member of a business networking group, but not attending any of the meetings, engaging in any of the discussions or getting involved in any of the events. You would likely view the membership's value in a completely different way than those that do engage. Social networking is simply an online extension of how we interact in off-line social events. At a cocktail party, if you find yourself in the corner and not engaging with anyone, by the end of the night you will likely feel like it was a waste of time.

When you do socially engage at a cocktail party, as a result of getting to know someone, you often find common business interests, a resource for a business problem that you are experiencing or even an opportunity to do business, but it doesn't happen in the first 5 minutes.

Larger businesses that are looking to attract Gen X / Gen Y employees would benefit greatly from a structured engagement in the social networking world and may even want to commit resources to ensure that it is being done on a regular basis (IBM actually has a VP of Social Networking).

But, before you get started down this road, be honest with yourself about how much time you are willing to devote to immerse yourself into the Social Networking world. You can't be social if you're not ever there...

Bonus Tips: Those that have teenagers can leverage their child's familiarity with social networking to (a) more quickly get up to speed on the do's and don'ts and (b) use it to further embellish the relationship with their child (hey, mom and dad ain't so clueless after all!)

When asking questions on LinkedIn, use headlines that are easy to digest and post your question at the end of the day (when most of the users are spending time answering questions). The first question I ever posted was too complicated and was posted in the middle of the day...it got no responses. The next day I posted the same question in a more appealing headline (just looking through the questions that get the most responses will help you craft your questions) and got immediate responses that were very helpful and a lot of them!
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